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Brazil
What
to see in Brazil
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|
AMAZON
NATIONAL PARK |
| This
huge national park can best be seen by hiring a guide locally
for hikes through the dense rain forest (hiking without
a guide is allowed only on certain trails). Be sure to take
food and treated water with you on the trail. During the
rainy season (February-April) you can tour the flooded rain
forest by boat. Basic cabins are available in the park only
if scientists are not using them; visitors can stay in hotels
in the town of Itaituba. 1,550 mi/2,500 km northwest of
Rio de Janeiro. |
|
ANGRA
DOS REIS (site in English) |
| This
town is a popular destination for trips to nearby islands
such as Ilha Grande, a nature preserve with great beaches
and for yachting and spear fishing. To kill time while waiting
for your boat, visit the Nossa Senhora do Carmo church and
convent. There's a Club Med in nearby Mangaratiba. 75 mi/120
km west of Rio de Janeiro. |
|
BELEM
DO PARA (site in Portuguese) |
| The
large port city of Belem (pop. 1,245,000) is a good base
for half-day river cruises to get a closer look at jungle,
birds, dugout canoes and Brazilian fishermen. (These short
cruises are really intended for people who aren't headed
farther up the Amazon on longer cruises.) Belem itself has
enough of interest to justify a two-day stay: the 18th-century
Basilica de Nossa Senhora de Nazare; the Goeldi
Museum (a combination of zoo, botanical gardens, aquarium
and a good ethnology museum); some old French-style mansions
in the Cidade Velha (Old Town); and the Teatro da Paz, which
was graced by Anna Pavlova and other famous performers at
the beginning of the 20th century. The Ver-o-Peso Market
is special: Among the fruit and vegetable stalls, you'll
find vendors selling crocodile teeth, dried boa constrictors
and voodoo charms (go early in the morning to see the most
action). If possible, attend a batuque ceremony (batuque
is a religious sect known for its colorful costumes and
interesting music). Not far from the city is the Ilha de
Marajo, an island the size of Switzerland at the convergence
of the Amazon and several smaller rivers. The island's ranches
accept guests July-December. 1,520 mi/2,445 km northwest
of Rio de Janeiro. |
|
BELO
HORIZONTE (site in Portuguese) |
| This
very modern and industrial city is usually visited as a
stopover point for travelers going from Rio to Brasilia.
Belo Horizonte (pop. 2,017,000) called Belo or Belzonte
locally, lies in the center of the country's most important
mining area. It probably doesn't warrant more than one full
day and night to see its highlights: the Palacio das Artes
handicraft museum and the Church of Sao Francisco (paintings
by artist Portinari and design by Niemeyer, the primary
architect of Brasilia). You can also see a prehistoric Indian
cave and the Museum of Modern Art. Walk through the city's
jewelry section and window-shop for gems (buy only if you
know what you're doing). If you're in Belo Horizonte on
a Sunday morning, visit the arts-and-crafts fair in Municipal
Park (don't overlook the park, which has an incredible 2,000
species of trees as well as a few resident pickpockets).
Belo is known for its hearty cuisine. A visit to Congonhas
(45 mi/70 km away) can be made as a day trip, or as a prelude
to nearby colonial Ouro Preto. If you're in Congonhas, be
sure to visit the Basilica de Bom Jesus to see Brazil's
most famous work of art, the Twelve Prophets, created by
sculptor Aleijadinho. 220 mi/350 km northwest of Rio de
Janeiro. |
| BRASILIA
(site in English) |
| Brasilia,
the nation's capital (pop. 1,598,000), was constructed from
scratch at the end of the 1950s. Located near the geographical
center of the country, it replaced Rio as the capital in
1960. Built in only three years under the direction of Brazil's
leading architects, Brasilia was intended to draw development
to the country's interior. Although, on paper, it appeared
to be a well-planned city, in reality it falls short of
its promise. The city was laid out in the shape of an airplane
(a modernist metaphor): government and administrative buildings
form the cockpit and fuselage, while residential and shopping
areas fill in the wings. The city was planned for a maximum
population of 500,000, with space set aside in every residential
block for apartments, restaurants, shops and services. No
provisions were made, however, for the great mass of non
government workers (more than one million in number) who
provide services to the city and who live in several "satellite
communities" (more commonly referred to as slums). There
are a few other details, in addition, that weren't really
thought through. For instance, even though the temperature
is always blazing hot, there's little shade, and every building
must be air-conditioned-a tall order for an energy-poor
country. It's also a city that's convenient only if you
have a car: Even short distances on a map make miserable
walks. What's more, its location in the middle of nowhere
has not endeared it to the politicians who live and work
there (those who can afford it get away every weekend to
enjoy the cultural attractions of Brazil's larger and more
cosmopolitan cities). Unless you're particularly interested
in modern architecture, don't go out of your way to visit
Brasilia-especially at the expense of some of the country's
other attractions. If you do go, one day will be more than
ample. Plan just enough time to see some of the more impressive
buildings: the Palacio do Congresso (Capitol Building),
Palacio do Planalto (presidential mansion and office), Palacio
da Justica (Supreme Court, with artificial cascades) and
the Palacio de Itamaraty Foreign Ministry). For a nice view
of the main buildings, go to the Square of the Three Powers
(referring to the legislative, executive and judicial branches).
Afterward, see the impressive National Cathedral, built
in the shape of a crown with angels suspended within. You'll
find a good view of the city atop the main television tower
(you'll be able to see from there that the city is indeed
shaped like an airplane). If you have more time, visit the
national museum (historical displays and a comprehensive
modern firearm collection). The embassy sector, where each
country has taken pains to represent its national contemporary
architecture, is worth seeing only if you're stumped for
something to do-the area is relatively isolated, and all
you can do is look over the compound walls at embassies.
575 mi/925 km northwest of Rio de Janeiro. |
|
BUZIOS
(site in English) |
| Buzios
(pronounced BOO-zee-ohs) is a priced, attractive resort
area jutting into the Atlantic on the Cabo Frio Peninsula.
The resort is made up of three towns (Armacao, Ossos and
Manguinhos) with 17 idyllic beaches set among sandy coves.
Water sports include surfing, wind surfing at Ferradura
(Horseshoe) Beach, snorkeling (Joao Fernandes and Joao Fernandinho
Beaches) and swimming. Sunbathers can avoid tan lines at
Azeda and Azedinha, the resort's two topless beaches. Although
not very well known by North Americans, Buzios was "discovered"
by the French in the 1960s and has been popular for years
with chic Brazilians and Europeans. Development is continuing
at a controlled pace: New buildings have a height limit
of two stories and are designed to blend in with local surroundings-a
neat trick for million-dollar villas in what was once a
fishing village. Most lodging is in small pousada-style
accommodations. Book as far in advance as possible, as it
can get busy. As befits an upscale resort, there are many
fine shops and excellent restaurants (Continental and Brazilian
cuisine). At least once, sample grilled fish, fresh from
the sea, on the beach-it's a special treat (and inexpensive,
to boot). 125 mi/200 km northeast of Rio de Janeiro. |
| CHAPADA
DIAMANTINA NATIONAL PARK (site in Portuguese)
|
| This
mountainous area, where diamonds were discovered nearly
200 years ago, is dotted with abandoned mining towns. The
mountains are laced with hiking trails that pass roaring
waterfalls, mysterious caves and wild rivers (but hire a
guide-maps are hard to find). Rock hounds will enjoy the
opportunity to collect unusual specimens-those keen eyes
may even spot a diamond. Lencois was the center of the diamond
activity, and it has retained much of the diamond-rush days.
Visit the Old French vice-consulate (the French bought industrial
diamonds for drills in the Panama Canal) and the Mining
Museum (Museu do Garimpo). 725 mi/1,165 km north of Rio
de Janeiro. |
| COSTA
VERDE |
| The
Costa Verde (Green Coast) offers relaxing day and weekend
trips from Rio and Sao Paulo. Locals favor its charm and
authenticity over fancier Buzios. The drive from Rio to
the city of Santos is beautiful: small beach line one sides
of the road, jungle and mountains the other. Visitors pass
cattle ranches, quaint 17th-century towns, uncrowded beaches
of white sand and more than 300 offshore islands. (The islands
can be seen on day trips from Sepetiba Bay, an hour-long
drive from Rio.) Santos itself, located 45 mi/70 km southeast
of Sao Paulo, is Brazil's leading commercial port-both Santos
and next-door neighbor Guaruja afford a wide range of nice
beaches and boat tours. Nearby Jose Menino have beautiful
orchid gardens that flower from October to February. East
of Santos is the popular beach resort of Ubatuba. Also in
this area is the colonial town of Parati (settled in 1650),
which has been designated a national and UNESCO monument.
The historical town center is now closed to automobile traffic.
175 mi/280 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro. |
| CUIABA
|
| The
capital of Mato Grosso State, Cuiaba (pop. 500,000) is interesting
to tourists mainly as a jumping-off point for excursions
into the Pantanal. If you find yourself in town with time
on your hands, visit the small zoo and the Museu do Indio
at the University of the Mato Grosso. Riverside cafes, with
live entertainment, offer nice views of the Cuiaba River.
Santo Antonio de Leverger, just upstream, has excellent
river beaches. 975 mi/1,570 km northwest of Rio de Janeiro. |
| CURITIBA
(site in English) |
| This
large capital is a nice, well-functioning and clean city
that is finally beginning to get the attention it deserves.
Settled by Germans, Poles and Italians, Curitiba is usually
a way station on the highway from Sao Paulo to Iguacu Falls
or points south. A model for urban planners throughout the
world, the city features Lagoa da Ordem (a nicely preserved
historic section with cobblestone streets), pleasant parks
(with many bike paths) and several museums (we liked the
exterior of the art nouveau Museu Paraense, though its exhibits
were less memorable than its facade). It has excellent restaurants
(Italian, Japanese and Brazilian) and active nightlife (local
jazz and rock). But perhaps the biggest surprise is Brazilian
drivers who stop at red lights! Unless you plan a day trip
to Vila Velha, one night is adequate. Another day trip is
the 65-mi/105-km train rides to the town of Paranagua, through
Lovely Mountain scenery. 420 mi/675 km southwest of Rio
de Janeiro. |
| EMAS
NATIONAL PARK (Parque Nacional das Emas) -site in
Portuguese |
| Advance
permission from the National Park Department is necessary
to visit this park (there are no tourist facilities), but
hard-core nature lovers will find that it's an excellent
place to see Brazilian wildlife. The residents include rheas,
anteaters, capybaras, coatimundis and armadillos, as well
as tropical birds. Enormous termite mounds dot the grounds.
The park lies east of the Pantanal. |
| FERNANDO
DE NORONHA (site in English) |
| A seldom-visited,
mountainous archipelago off the northeastern coast, Fernando
de Noronha is a year-round destination that offers quiet
beaches, good diving, great surfing and snorkeling, and
a laid-back atmosphere. The landscapes and seascapes are
diverse and beautiful: The islands were declared an environmental
reserve in 1986. There are 17 fortresses on the islands
(the principal one being Forte de Nossa Senhora dos Remedios),
but the main reason to go there is relaxation. A week will
not be too long for those who think this sounds appealing.
The Hotel Esmeralda (built by the U.S. Army Air Corps in
World War II) is the only hotel; so advance reservations
are essential. 320 mi/510 km northeast of Recife. |
| FLORIANOPOLIS
(site in English) |
| Imagine
Bavaria by a tropical bay and you'll have some idea of Florianopolis.
The capital of Santa Catarina state, the city is divided
into two: the mainland part is mostly industrial, while
the scenic spots are on the island-attractive colonial buildings,
400-year-old forts, baroque churches and the best surfing
in Brazil (on the eastern coast of the island). Florianopolis'
night life is active and the bier halls are popular meeting
spots (the city produces some of Brazil's Nearby, at Camboriu,
are resorts and casinos. 480 mi/770 km southwest of Rio
de Janeiro. |
| FORTALEZA
(site in English) |
| This
coastal city (pop. 1,766,000) has several outstanding beaches
to the north and south, but avoid the polluted beaches in
town. Facilities are adequate. The seafood and local music
are excellent. It's a good place to shop for Brazilian handicrafts.
Aside from a few museums and the mausoleum for Castelo Branco
(a military president), there really isn't much to see or
do. 1,350 mi/2,175 km north of Rio de Janeiro. |
| IGUACU
FALLS (Site in English) (Foz do Iguacu) |
| Located
near the junction of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, Iguacu
Falls (pronounced eeh-gwa-SUE) is a must-see: It may be
the greatest waterfall in the world. There are 275 cataracts
in all, stretching 2 mi/4 km from bank to bank and reaching
a height of 300ft/90 m. The falls, on the Parana River,
are best seen October-December and March-May. We suggest
flying from Rio or Sao Paulo as early as possible, overnighting
at the falls, then flying to another destination the next
evening. That way, you'll have a lot of time at the falls,
which look and photograph differently in different light.
The adventurous can go by train, road or riverboat (the
boat trip takes about two days from Rio). A four-minute
helicopter ride goes up the river into the falls and over
them, then circles and comes down in to the falls again
before landing (there's about a 1-mi/2-km walk back). About
35 mi/55 km south of the falls, you can drive into Argentina
via a bridge, or continue on to Paraguay. We don't recommend
it, however. The traffic is horrendous, as the area is jam
packed with South Americans shopping for discounted (and
often counterfeit) goods. We suggest, instead, that you
stay longer at the falls or visit the old missions in the
area. Keep in mind that you'll need a very long day to see
both the Brazilian and Argentine sides of the falls. On
the Brazilian side, you'll see the falls from a distance
(although the views are breathtaking), while the Argentine
side has catwalks that take you deeper into the jungle setting
and right up to the edge of the roaring waters. (You can
take a boat ride quite close to the edge.) The park has
an aviary with more than 200 types of birds, most of that
are native to Brazil. An easy side trip is to the vast Itaipu
Dam built jointly by Brazil and Paraguay, where you can
take a free tour. It's one of the largest hydroelectric
works projects in the world (55 stories high and 5 mi/8km
wide-12,800 megawatts). 730 mi/1,175 km southwest of Rio
de Janeiro. |
| ITATIAIA
NATIONAL PARK |
| The
main sights of this mountainous park include rock formations
created by erosion (including the Prataleiras, made up of
giant rock slabs). The park encompasses waterfalls, alpine
meadows and lowland jungle. Wildlife includes monkeys, sloths
and more than 400 species of birds. 90 mi/145 km northwest
of Rio de Janeiro. |
| JOAO
PESSOA (site in English) |
| The
capital of Paraiba State (pop. 497,000) lies on the easternmost
tip of South America. The main reason to visit is to see
the Igreja Sao Francisco, one of Brazil's most interesting
churches: Elements of several European architectural styles
can be seen in its facade (the Dutch, French and Portuguese
all occupied the city at different times). 1,060 mi/1,705
km northeast of Brasilia. |
| MANAUS
(site in Portuguese) |
| In
the days of the Amazon rubber boom (before the invention
of synthetic rubber), Manaus was known as the Paris of the
Jungle. Those days, however, are long gone: Today's Manaus
is a troubled city. A fire devastated part of the center
of the city, and the city's population has exploded to 1,300,000,
overburdening sanitation and health facilities. Nonetheless,
Manaus still serves as a base for tourist excursions exploring
the mid-Amazon region. Day trips can be made by riverboat
to visit villages built on stilts or to hike through the
jungle on foot. Several jungle lodges in the vicinity offer
a wide variety of rain-forest programs. When cruising down
the river about 12 mi., 20 km from town, watch for the Wedding
of the Waters, where the clear waters of the Rio Negro meet
the muddy Amazon. Adventurous travelers might consider long-distance
river journeys to or from Belem (though to be honest, we
were bored out of our gourds after three days on the river).
The city itself, though rather dirty, is worth exploring.
Despite the fact that it's 1,000 mi/1,600 km inland, huge
oceangoing ships dock there to distribute their cargo throughout
the Amazon basin, and it's fascinating to watch them unload.
Amazon wildlife can be easily seen at the CIGS zoo, and
the Municipal Market on the river is colorful and lively-try
to visit when fishermen arrive and unload their catch. Make
a point to see the restored 1892 opera house, Teatro Amazonas,
in its entire belle-époque splendor. Some top performers
have sung there. Plan two nights in Manaus. 1,200 mi/1,930
km northwest of Brasilia. |
| NATAL
(site in Portuguese) |
| This
city of 607,000, located on the northeastern tip of Brazil,
is best known for its beaches. We think the two nicest are
Ponta Negra and Praia Maio. Negra is a relatively deserted
stretch of sand dunes south of town (except on weekends,
when the dunes are hopping with crowds), and Maio is a broad
beach in town protected by a reef and the star-shaped 16th-century
Fortaleza dos Reis Magos (Fort of the Magi). The lighthouse
of Mae Luiza affords great views of Natal and the surrounding
beaches. Because of its distance from other major areas,
many tourists don't visit Natal. Plan three nights there
if you're a beach lover; otherwise, one night will be plenty.
1,290 mi/2,075 km north of Rio de Janeiro. |
| NITEROI
(site in Portuguese) |
| Just
across the bay from Rio, Niteroi is a town with three wonderful
beaches, Itaipu, Camboinhas and Itacoatiara. Bus and ferry
to Rio connect the city. There is good shopping and a strip
with restaurants, bars, clubs and kiosks. Parque da Cidade
has wildflowers, tropical plants and a beautiful view of
the city. Located 9 mi/14 km east of Rio de Janeiro. |
| OLINDA
(site in English) |
| Olinda
(pop. 389,000) has some of the best-preserved colonial buildings
in Brazil (UNESCO has declared it a "monument to humanity").
The city's architecture reflects both its Portuguese and
Dutch heritage (the Dutch invaded and occupied the area
in the 17th century). We think the best way to see Olinda
is on foot. Stroll its 16th- and 17th-century cobblestone
streets, past colonial houses, shops, churches and markets.
There are frequent festivals in town-the best known is Carnival.
Olinda is usually seen as a day trip from Recife. 1,200
mi/1,930 km northeast of Rio de Janeiro. |
| OURO
PRETO (Vila Rica) - site in English |
| Originally
named Vila Rica (Rich Town), this 18th-century hill town
(pop. 30,000) was once the wealthiest gold-mining center
of Brazil. (The name Ouro Preto itself means Black Gold.)
We think its a-must-see, particularly for architecture and
history buffs. Unlike many other colonial towns in the country,
Ouro Preto is largely unaffected by encroaching modern buildings
and skyscrapers. For this reason, it is considered one of
the two best-preserved colonial towns of the nation (the
other is Olinda). Ouro Preto has cobblestone streets, baroque
churches and scenic ruins. Other evidence of its past wealth
and glory includes the 18th-century Igreja de Nossa Senhora
de Pilar (much of it covered in gold leaf) and sculptures
by Aleijadinho. Allocate half an hour to see the Museum
of the School of Mines (containing 25,000 gems and mineral
samples) located on the main square. The massive white sculpture
nearby depicts independence hero Tiradentes (Toothpuller-he
was a dentist). The town can be seen as a day trip from
Belo Horizonte, but we recommend a day and night in Ouro
Preto, just to absorb its special atmosphere. Nearby Mariana,
filled with baroque churches, is also a gem. Its terrain
is relative flat, so those who have difficulty walking might
find it an alternative to steep Ouro Preto. 60 mi/100 km
southeast of Belo Horizonte. |
| PANTANAL
(site in English) |
| The
Pantanal is one of the world's great wildlife reserves.
A trip there should be booked through an adventure tour
operator-only a very small part of the area has any tourism
infrastructure (or towns, for that matter). The Pantanal
abounds with birds (especially waterfowl), and because the
terrain is largely open, it's easier to spot some animals
in the Pantanal than farther north in the jungles of the
Amazon. Fishing is excellent, with more than 350 varieties
of fish, some weighing up to 175 lb/80 kg. The reserve has
alligators, deer, armadillos and capybaras (the world's
largest rodent). Unfortunately, poaching has endangered
some of the animals, and anteaters, jaguars and otters are
no longer commonly seen (although they're said to be making
a comeback). The best time to visit is during the breeding
season (July-September). 1,000 mi/1,600 km west of Rio de
Janeiro. |
| PETROPOLIS
(site in Portuguese) |
| Petropolis,
a half-day or full-day trip from Rio, provides a very nice
vacation from your vacation. Set in the cool hills north
of Rio, this Swiss-style town (pop. 286,000) was the summer
retreat for the last emperor of Brazil. Petropolis' main
attractions are its Crystal Palace, Gothic cathedral, Museu
Imperial (imperial crown and robes-the marble floors are
special, too) and the house of Santos-Dumont. Alberto Santos-Dumont,
a turn-of-the-century Brazilian aviator, is notable for
two reasons: First, Brazilians fervently claim him to be
the inventor of the airplane-the Brazilian Encyclopedia
Britannic doesn't have an entry for the Wright brothers-and,
second, he was incredibly compulsive and designed his house
to conform with his ways. He always climbed the stairs to
his house starting with his right foot first, so he cut
out the left side of every other stair starting with the
first, and the right side of alternating stairs, thus forcing
his visitors to do as he did. We especially enjoyed the
horse-and-carriage rides through the city past lovely canals
and bridges, old-fashioned street lamps and pleasant parks.
30 mi/45 km north of Rio de Janeiro. |
| PORTO
ALEGRE (site in English) |
| This
modern southern city (pop. 1,263,000) first became notable
around the turn of the century when large groups of European
immigrants (primarily Germans and Italians) arrived. Plan
two nights in Porto Alegre to see its baroque Italian cathedral,
several palacios (mansions), the 80-acre/30-hectare Parque
Farroupilha and the Teatro Sao Pedro (the city's oldest
theater). If time permits, take a ride on the Guaiba River
to see islands and the city from the water. Day trips north
can be made to visit the shoe-manufacturing town of Nova
Hamburgo-the drive there passes potato, corn, tobacco, sugarcane
and soybean fields. On the way are the towns of Canela and
Gramado, where descendants of Germans make wood and basket
handicrafts. 700 mi/1,125 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro. |
| RECIFE
(Site in English) |
| The
coastal city of Recife (pop. 1,297,000), on the Golden Coast
of northeastern Brazil, presents a contrast of colonial
and modern buildings. Called the Venice of Brazil for its
canals and bridges, Recife is dirtier than the Italian version
(but not by much). Plan two nights to see the three main
regions of the city (spread out over islands and peninsulas
connected by bridges-the older parts of the city are nearest
the ocean). Recife has a number of interesting museums,
including ones devoted to clay, sugar, trains and subjects
such as slavery, archaeology and geography. There are also
17th- and 18th-century churches with beautiful woodcarvings
and gilded altars. Take time to browse at the Casa da Cultura
(an old prison turned shopping mall), or shop for Brazil's
finest ceramic tiles at the Brennand Ceramics Workshops,
just outside of town (there are also many startling sculptures
there). Recife has a fantastic Carnival that rivals those
in Rio and Salvador. Several half- and full-day excursions
can be made, including ones to Olinda; Cabo (20 mi/30 km
south-beaches at Gaibu, a fort and a museum); the Island
of Itamaraca (30 mi/50 km north-good beaches, a 17th-century
Dutch fort and one of the oldest churches in Brazil); Sao
Jose da Coroa Grande (65 mi/110 km south-beaches and good
scuba); and Caruaru (85 mi/135 km west-a figurative-arts
center with big markets Friday-Sunday and smaller markets
on other days). Tours to traditional sugarcane plantations
outside Recife are also available. 1,155 mi/1,860 km north
of Rio de Janeiro. |
| RIO
DE JANEIRO (site in English) |
| Rio
(pop. 6,000,000), the former capital of Brazil, sits on
one of the world's most magnificent harbors-arrive by ship,
if possible. Beautiful Rio de Janeiro (pronounced HEE-oh
dee zhah-NAY-roh) demands no fewer than three nights to
do it justice. We're happy to report that the city seems
to be coming to terms with problems that have plagued travelers
in the recent past. Crime is down, and morale is up, although
graffiti is more prevalent than before. Driving isn't quite
so unpleasant: Major roads now go one way for morning traffic
and another for the afternoon rush, and littering is heavily
fined. The numerous hillside slums known as favelas are
still the shame of Rio, but renewal projects are extending
city services for the first time to many residents in the
poorest areas. Progress seems slow but steady. Upon arrival
in Rio, almost everyone heads up to the rocky outcrop known
as Pao de Acucar (pronounced pow dee ah-SU-car, or, in English,
Sugar Loaf Mountain) for a spectacular 360-degree view of
Rio and Guanabara Bay (a gondola-and-cable system takes
you up and back). The view of Rio at your feet is stupendous,
but continue up Corcovado Mountain to get an even higher
perspective: It's the site of the 130-ft/40-m Christ the
Redeemer statue, which overlooks the city (the drive there
and back and the tour will take almost three hours). You
can also take a funicular up to the statue-the best view
is on the right-hand side. From Corcovado, you'll see that
the city is divided by a mountain range into two areas:
the Zona Norte and the Zona Sul (northern and southern zones).
The Zona Sul holds most of the city's sights. Rio, you'll
soon find, is not only lovely, it's lively. Cariocas, as
Rio natives are called, are fun loving, and it's important
to allow time to join in activities where you'll meet the
people: Spend a day on one of its famous beaches (Copacabana,
Flamengo, Leblon or Ipanema), attend a soccer game at Maracana
Stadium (the largest stadium in the world-it holds 200,000
fans!), go to a performance at the Municipal Theater or
plan a night of club hopping. There are several museums
in town, covering everything from classical composer Villa-Lobos
(his possessions and scores) to the campy Carmen Miranda
Museum (the actress' costumes and trademark fruit-basket
headdresses). The National History and Fine Arts Museums
are other must-sees. For a look at Rio's spiritual side,
see the divine art and architecture of the Candelaria Church
and Gloria Church, as well as the Sao Bento Monastery. Indulge
your natural spirit in the botanical gardens or Tijuca Forest.
Rio's first theme park, Enchanted Land, is south of Copacabana
and Ipanema beaches. Every year, during the four days preceding
Ash Wednesday, the most chaotic celebration in any city
in the world gets under way: Carnival. Everybody is out
dancing in the streets, so don't plan on doing any shopping
or normal sightseeing at that time. In fact, Carnival activities
range not only citywide, but also nationwide! Participants
plan (and save up for) their colorful, exquisite costumes
for a year (though some costumes seem to be little more
than glitter and one or two sequins). The best costumes
can be seen on Sunday and Monday of Carnival week in the
specially constructed Sambadrome. The shows start at 8 pm
and continue until 8 am! Buy your tickets well in advance.
Carnival is a must-at least once in a lifetime. Day trips
from Rio include Petropolis, Angra dos Reis, Itatiaia, Niteroi,
Paulo Enginheiro de Frentim, Vassouras, Nova Friburgo (Alpine
mountain town, noted for its flowers) and Teresopolis (the
climbing and hiking center of Brazil). Parati, to the west
of Angra dos Reis, is a charming beach resort and colonial
town (albeit a bit too far for a comfortable day trip-plan
an overnight instead). Sao Paulo is 45 minutes away by the
Air Bridge (shuttle flights leave every half-hour). |
| SALVADOR
(Sao Salvador de Bahia) - site in English |
| This
is striking city (pop. 2,300,000), Brazil's longtime colonial
capital, and lies on beautiful Santos Bay (Bahia De Todos
os Santos). A strong African influence derives from the
slaves brought to work in the sugar cane fields more than
400 years ago. Salvador is divided into an upper and lower
section, and the enormous Lacerda elevator, which goes from
one level to the other, affords outstanding views. Multicolored
homes, red-tiled roofs, a great market, twisting and narrow
cobblestone streets, great beaches, terreiros (cult worship
houses) and about 300 churches make this an excellent place
to stay for two or three nights. No tour of the city is
complete without seeing the Igreja de Sao Francisco-although
relatively plain on the outside (as are most Portuguese
churches in Brazil), the inside is covered in gold leaf
and is as ornate as it is beautiful. Also visit the Farol
da Barra (a 16th-century fort overlooking one of several
sites claiming to be the original spot where Portuguese
navigator Cabral's party landed in Brazil) and the Igreja
do Bomfim, where believers from across the state go to worship
and celebrate (don't miss the Room of Miracles, where believers
leave reproductions of body parts in need of miraculous
healing-you'll be amazed by the number of plastic arms,
legs, heads, hearts and lungs dangling from the ceiling).
Shopping is good on Rua Alfredo do Brito and exceptional
at the Mercado Modelo (good African and Brazilian souvenirs).
Pelourinho, one of the oldest areas in town, has colonial
architecture and a pillory (where slaves and prisoners were
tortured). Other reminders of the city's past can be seen
at the Museu de Arte da Bahia (17th-century antique displays)
and the Museu Abelardo Rodriques (colonial paintings). The
city's culture is celebrated in the Museu da Cidade (Yoruba
tribal displays), the Afro-Brazilian Museum (African displays),
and the Carlos Costa Pinto Museum. Try to attend a candomble
ceremony, which illustrates the lively African religious
culture found in the city, and watch capoeira, an amazing
combination of martial arts and African folk dance (don't
take pictures of the participants unless you are willing
to pay for the privilege). Salvador also has a great Carnival
celebration, though it's not as flashy as the one in Rio.
North of Salvador is the fishing village of Praia do Forte,
which borders the Sapiranga Ecological Reserve. The reserve
protects one of Brazil's last stands of Atlantic rain forest.
Itaparica, a lush island 12 mi/19 km southwest, has several
nice beaches and a great view of Salvador across the bay.
The Sao Joaquim Ferry makes the 45-minute crossing several
times daily, but be sure to reserve a space in advance-Salvadorans
like Itaparica, too. Note: Salvador has more than its share
of poverty and crime. When you're having a soda or beer
in an open bar or cafe, be prepared for beggars with cups
or glasses to ask you for a drink. Crime directed at tourists
is a problem, particularly in Pelourinho after dark or the
sparsely populated beach areas. Avoid the temptation to
change money on the streets at attractive rates-you'll be
inviting trouble. 750 mi/1,200 km northeast of Rio de Janeiro. |
| SAO
PAULO (site in English) |
| Sao
Paulo is where nature's jungle gives way to concrete one.
It's the largest city in South America and the third largest
in the world. This ethnically diverse megalopolis of 16,000,000
is the financial, commercial and industrial center of Brazil.
It is also rich in culture, parks and museums. But don't
go expecting to see a beautiful city like Buenos Aires or
Rio. While there are lovely neighborhoods in Sao Paulo,
it seems as if everything is made of concrete-even the fire
hydrants! The real reason to go is to sample its wide variety
of international restaurants, fabulous shopping and very
active night life-Sao Paulo is one of the very few places
in the world where you can get stuck in a traffic jam at
two in the morning. The city is centered around the Praca
da Se (praca, pronounced PRAH-sah, means square). It was
near the square's cathedral, at the Patio de Colegio, that
Jesuit priests founded the city in 1554. But the sentimental
heart of the metropolis, featured in poetry and song, is
the intersection of Avenida Sao Joao and Avenida Ipiranga.
We especially enjoyed Sunday morning in the square, when
the Hippie Fair (a colorful flea market) is open for business.
Nearby is one of the city's loveliest parks, the Praca da
Republica, and the tallest building in town (Edificio Italia,
which has a rooftop garden and restaurant). Just off the
Praca da Republica is the Rua Barao de Itapetininga, a pedestrian
shopping street that leads to the baroque Municipal Theater
(world-class concerts) and one of the city's symbols, the
Viaduto do Cha (Tea Bridge). Skyscraper-lined Avenida Paulista,
once the street, where coffee barons lived in splendid residences,
is now the commercial center of the city. For an idea of
what a millionaire's mansion looked like, visit the McDonald's
on Avenida Paulista (the hamburger chain restored one of
the last remaining manors for its location). History buffs
should allow time for the 17th-century Casa do Bandeirante-the
building highlights displays from Brazil's age of internal
exploration. High among the city's cultural attractions
is the Sao Paulo Museum of Art (locally known as MASP, it's
on Avenida Paulista), with a fine collection of Portinaris
and one of the largest compilations of impressionist paintings
in the world. The Sacred Art Museum, near the Tiradentes
subway stop, is claimed to be the best on the subject in
Brazil. Art lovers will want to visit the city in the fall
of an odd numbered year, when Sao Paulo hosts the Bienal
de Arte, showcasing modern art from dozens of countries.
The Museum of Contemporary Art, open year in and year out,
is also housed in the Bienal building. Ethnic neighborhoods
provide the setting for exceptional restaurants and the
city's active nightlife. Some of the more interesting areas
are Bela Vista and Bixiga (both Italian), Vinte e Cinco
de Marco (Arabic), Bom Retiro (Jewish) and Liberdade (Japanese).
Liberdade has a colorful street fair on Sunday mornings-exit
the Liberdade subway station and you'll find the market
all around you. Other Sao Paulo sights include the Butanta
Institute Snake Farm and the Jockey Club (horse racing).
Parks include the Parque de Ibirapuera (planetarium) and
Parque de Ipiranga (the tomb of Dom Pedro I, the nation's
first emperor, is in the park). Shopping, once done only
in small stores and boutiques, is now possible in upscale
shopping centers all over town. Chiefs among them are Morumbi,
Eldorado, Iguatemi and Ibirapuera. Alameda Itu and Rua Augusta
(the latter leading off Avenida Paulista) are the chic shopping
streets. Plan two nights in Sao Paulo. For a day trip, drive
down the scenic Via Anchieta to the ports and resorts of
Guaruja and Santos. Rio de Janeiro is 45 minutes away by
the Air Bridge, shuttle flights that leave every half-hour).
225 mi/360 km west of Rio de Janeiro. |
| VILA
VELHA (site in English) |
| This
park in southern Brazil has a beautiful crater lake and
odd rock formations (some are 650 ft/200 m long and 1,970
ft/600 m wide) that-with the help of your imagination and
a guide-appear to be carved in the shapes of people, animals
and objects. You can easily visit the lake by elevator.
This intriguing park is best seen as a day trip from Curitiba.
480 mi/770 km southwest of Rio de Janeiro. |
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